Equipped with an underwater camera, we are worried so much by the beauty of the multicoloured fish which we pass close missing a sea lion which passes close from us at the speed of a torpedo.
But before being able the immortaliser, another lion brings itself, its long moustache frétillantes, and it measures me, in my getup of diving in apnea. Then it launches a barking which is added to the many noises of the sea.
My companion of diving slips towards the bank, accompanied by the one of them which follows it while dodelinant like Charlie Chaplin. The sea lion then will find its congeneric blottis on the beach to devote itself to other capers.
If there is a thing which one cannot forget after having visited the archipelago of 19 islands located at 1 000 kilometers of Ecuador, in the Pacific Ocean, it is the charming company of these creatures.
Those are everywhere during our four days stay: making the nap with the heat sun, rolling themselves in white sand, playing in not very deep water close to the banks, driving out shrimps and the sardines of which they are fond of delicacies, carrying out capers and even surfing on the waves of the ocean.
“They are Californian sea lions”, explains while laughing our guide Carlos Cantos, while the mammals defy the waves. Those come from America. But they arrived at Galapagos strong a long time ago. At the time of all our divings, we were joined by these mammalian sympathetic nerves sailors.
Darwin
The Galapagos islands were discovered in 1535. They were named in the honor of the giant tortoises which live there. These islands acquired their notoriety following the voyage of Charles Darwin, in 1835. The British scientist remained five weeks there to study nature and the wildlife with an aim of collecting evidence to validate his theory of the evolution. The observations of this tour were fundamental in the results of Darwin.
Galapagos were formed approximately five million years ago when underwater volcanos made irruption. The altitude of the islands, the luminosity and its hot climate made of them to an ideal sanctuary for 58 species of birds, for the sea lions, the penguins, the iguanas and, of course, the giant tortoises being able to live until at 180 years.
Tourism organized there made its appearance in the years 1960. Only 5 of the 19 islands are inhabited. With an aim of preserving the nature of the archipelago, UNESCO declared inheritance world in 1978. And in 1985, the government of Ecuador created a marine reserve to extend ecological protection to the underwater funds surrounding the islands.
Only 100 000 tourists can visit the archipelago annually. Once on the islands, they must be subjected to very strict rules. It is interdict to leave the marked out paths. It is also interdict to gather plants and of touching the animals. And it is proscribed to bring food, drink and cigarettes.
Tortoises
At the time of our last morning, on the island of Santa Cruz, where nearly 2 500 giant tortoises live, our guide, tell Carlos Santos, we that these animals become their sexual ripe at 40 years. Their copulations take from two to three hours.
But the male must be really précautionneux. With an average weight of 270 kilos, if it falls on the side during the act, it will be projected on its carapace and will be able to die about it because it will not be able to be turned over on its legs and will dry with the heat sun.
Among the avid listeners of the sexual stories of our guide, there is Christina Adams, a coed in right of Ottawa, and its mother Suzanne, an accountant of Vancouver. Christina tells that it travelled on all the continents, except for the Antarctic. She says that it is one of best cruisings in which she took part.
Enid Mountjoy, of Oshawa, fact part of a group of pensioners. The 77 year old woman explains that what it found exciting more was to see the penguins in their natural habitat and to have the occasion to saunter on the white sand beaches of Bachas.
“I had the impression to be in another world, tells it. It was so much exciting, one lived new adventures all the times that one left the ship to embark in a boat moving towards the banks “.
DAYS FILLED WELL
We chose to visit the archipelago in the most current way, i.e. in boat of cruising. During our four days of tour, we were placed on board Galapagos Legend, of a capacity of 100 passengers.
We are unloaded in five islands located at the east of the archipelago for visits of interpretation of nature, made diving in apnea and crossed the line of the equator twice.
At the time of a seafood dinner sprinkled of Chilean wines, the captain of the ship, Cesar Arcos, revealed us that the route that it borrows must be approved in advance by the authorities of the reserve so that tourism does not harm the ecosystem.
The 52 year old captain, who counts 30 years of service, prefers the Canadians with the Americans, whom it describes as too demanding. He explains why its ship is popular because he has a broad operating range which enables him to bring the tourists in the borders of the archipelago.
“It is not one strolls in the Caribbean, increases Yvette Hauser, director of cruising. We comfortably take along the tourists of an island to another. However, our customers want action.”
Mrs. Hauser says true. The boat is impeccable and the personnel, attentive. One does the housework of our cabins three times per day. But the days are charged.
Program
The only moments of inactivity occur about midday, when the sun is too strong for excursions, and with fallen the night.
The day starts at 6 a.m. 45, just after the rising of the sun. Mrs. Hauser uses an intercom to awake us in four languages: Spanish, English, French and German.
We have then an hour to eat and prepare us with the first excursion of the day. We are divided into several groups and leave the ship on board boats towards our destinations. All that with a quasi military precision.
Today, our guide is Carlos Cantos. This one tells us with force details the practices of a multitude of species of birds and marine mammals.
It explains us why a male sea lion has a difficult life. Every three weeks, it must fight to obtain the favours of a harem of females. If it manages to fertilize them, it will spend the three following weeks to supervise its herd, without eating nor to sleep, until exhaustion.
Cantos teaches us that the male iguana — there are terrestrial and marine iguanas in the archipelago — does not have less than two penises, one on the left and the other on the right. It uses that which is appropriate to him best at the time of its copulations. In addition, the bird petrel inflates a red pocket located behind its head to allure the females. That which has the largest red pocket is that which is likely the most to bring back a girlfriend in her nest.
NOTEBOOK OF VOYAGE
Precautions to be taken
If you envisage a tour in Ecuador, a country with the diversified geography, it will be necessary to go to see a doctor specialist in the tropical countries. Altitude, water, food and the insects pose all of the potential risks. Even if, in Galapagos, the most important risk is the extreme sun, Galapagos Legend is equipped with a doctor. I was forced to resort to his services (it takes the credit cards) after a small mishap and I must say that I was relieved to know it on board.
How to go there
Continental Airlines offers a connection towards the capital of Ecuador, Quito, via Newark, in the New Jersey. It is a flight of approximately eight hours including/understanding a stopover in Panama City. De Quito, there is a flight of the AeroGal company towards Galapagos, one duration of a little more than two hours, including a stopover. For more information, visit the site www.continental.com. The reservations can be made to the 1 800 231-0856. AeroGal has its Web site: www.aerogal.com.
Fixed price cruising
Galapagos Legend offers cruisings of three, four or seven days just as five types of fixed price. The cost for three nights in double occupation is 1 137 $ CA in low season (of at the beginning of January with at the beginning of March, of May 1 at June 30, mid-November and September in mid-December) up to 1 860$ CA in tourist season. Admission in Galapagos east of 100$ US.
For more details on Ecuador and Galapagos, you can consult the site www.purecuador.com. And for more precise information on the archipelago, made the www.kleintours.com.
Posted: January 14th, 2008 under Travel in general.
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